the return

Leon Cathedral, night.

I have returned. It was great being back in Spain after five years. When I arrived, it was as if I hadn't left, but somehow overnight they had changed the currency and set up Turkish restaurants all over Madrid. Good work was done in the archives and good eating in the bars and restaurants. Once I had the chance to walk through Madrid, I saw some real changes, for better and for worse. There was more of an effort to restrict traffic in the center, which was good. There was a greater variety of people, making a city which always cosmopolitan even more so. At the same time, life was faster and more stressful. My friends who still live in Madrid want to go someplace smaller. There are Starbucks everywhere, which a city with so many great cafes does not need. Things were more expensive, but still relatively cheap for someone who lives in Manhattan.

Right now I have jet lag compounded by New York mugginess, so I'll leave the details until later. I also am suffering the effects of the last week of my stay, which involved staying up late with friends at night and getting up early to go to the archives. There is never much sleeping done in Spain in the summer. Still, a great trip. Now I think it's time for a siesta -- a New York siesta.